From The New York Times

Kuni Takahashi for The New York Times | Tourists from India cooled off on Dal Lake in Srinagar, Kashmir, last month. Tourism has returned this year after several violent summers in the disputed territory.
By 
Published: August 9, 2011

SRINAGAR, Kashmir — By this time last summer, this beleaguered city was a war zone. Dozens of people had been killed in deadly clashes between stone-throwing protesters and heavily armed security forces. Each death prompted a fresh set of angry demonstrations that prompted even tougher crackdowns, leading to more bloodshed.

It was the third rage-filled summer in a row, and by the time the autumn leaves turned, more than 100 civilians had been killed. Apples rotted from their branches in orchards across the valley and the saffron went unharvested. The valley’s economy virtually collapsed.

When young Muslims across North Africa and the Arabian Peninsula rose up this winter and spring against dictatorial governments, it seemed inevitable that their example would find voice here, in a mostly Muslim region that is claimed by both India and Pakistan, and where Indian soldiers are seen as an occupying force.

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